A look into how major corporations and white-owned businesses are abusing the sacred herb, sage, that serves an important role in Indigenous communities for its spiritual rituals that date back centuries. “Hipster” businesses such as Urban Outfitters and Anthropologie whitewash the plant and often sell it with crystals and palo santo bundles to promote good energy, but are not aware of its cultural significance when Natives were once persecuted for practicing their spirituality.
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Associated with purity, the popular medicinal herb—salvia apiana or white sage—is held sacred in many Indigenous communities for its traditional use in smudging rituals and metaphysical purposes. Commodifying its cleansing qualities, companies have taken advantage of the plant by mass-producing “witch kits” and “starter rituals” leading to illegal overharvesting and shortages.
Dried sage and plant resins are burned as “smudge” and are believed to promote healthy healing, increased spiritual awareness, spiritual protection, longevity, and mental clarity. Aside from the spiritual benefits, white sage is great for reducing anxiety, protecting against free radical damage, supporting digestion, and alleviating menstruation symptoms. Smudging is performed before or after significant life events such as moving into a new house or a fight in a relationship. Since it’s a sanctified herb, it should only be used in small amounts; burning one leaf at a time helps preservation.
The use of white sage in smudging is rooted in deeper historical contexts and specific practices; many Native American tribes would live on the American west lands where it was harvested. The sacred plant is widely used among many tribes such as the Lakota, Comanche, Cheyenne, Arapaho, and Navajo that connect sage to prayer ceremonies.
In various Indigenous cultures, plants are viewed as having spirits—similar to sage—they’re used as means of communicating with spiritual beings while having a heightened spiritual awareness between the body and earth. By smudging with appropriate intentions, the herb is activated and conveys healing energies towards one's space.
Smudging rituals incorporate the four elements during the purification process; earth, air, wind, and fire. Ancient Romans called sage the “salvation plant,” and has been used for its natural healing properties in ancient Egyptian, Roman, and Greek medicines.
Historically, the bloody mass persecution and erasure of Natives by the U.S. government is “why the burning of sage by non-Natives is a classic case of cultural appropriation.” America’s first nations used dried herbs—making it culturally significant. Southern California tribes that have a long history of nurturing white sage include the Cahuilla, Chumash, Kumeyaay, Luiseno, and Tongva.
The government denied Native Americans the rights to utilize sacred objects and made ceremonies illegal—including smudging—until The American Indian Religious Freedom Act was enforced by Congress in 1978 to protect religious freedoms and practices by American Indians, Eskimos, Aleuts, and Native Hawaiians. These rights include, “access of sacred sites, repatriation of sacred objects held in museums, freedom to worship through ceremonial and traditional rites, including within prisons, and use and possession of objects considered sacred.” Before this law was introduced, Indigenous communities faced punishments ranging from petty fines to prison sentences if they didn’t comply.
According to the National Conference of State Legislatures, as of March 2020, there are over 570 federally recognized Native tribes in the U.S. that burn sage, sweetgrass, rosemary, etc… in their smudging ceremonies. Across Native communities, different medicines are used for smudging depending on the geographic location; not all use white sage. Though it’s naturalized throughout the U.S., sage is native to California’s deserts and is widely accessed by local tribes and shamans.
Today, poachers actively endanger white sage by illegally overharvesting from the wild in California to profit off smudge sticks. According to the November 2019 article published by the Citizen Potawatomi Nation (CPN), southern California agricultural companies threaten its survival by stripping the lands.
In 2018, four people were arrested for smuggling over 400 pounds of sage from the North Etiwanda Preserve of Rancho Cucamonga. Sage is stolen by non-Natives and passes through numerous vendors and markets—making it impossible to know if it was sustainably sourced and harvested. Vice recently called the increase in commercialization the, “white sage black market.”
Companies that participate in overharvesting the popular plant contribute to Native erasure by threatening the survival of sacred objects and medicines, thus making spirituality a million-dollar industry. In order for non-Natives to avoid appropriating smudging rites, it is vital to recognize the mass exploitation and the longtime history of religious oppression faced by the Natives. If the plant is still needed in medicine, purchasing directly from Native American and Indigenous Nations is the best way of supporting them.
The definition of cultural appropriation is, “A term used to describe the taking over of creative or artistic forms, themes, or practices by one cultural group from another. It is in general used to describe Western appropriations of non‐Western or non‐white forms, and carries connotations of exploitation and dominance.”
The rite of smudging has been appropriated by white-owned yoga studios, wellness, and beauty brands, creating a mainstream trend for cleansing negative energy. Smudge sticks and bundles are becoming more accessible in retail chain stores; major indie brands like Urban Outfitters and Anthropologie have exploited the plant to profit off “good vibes.” The commoditized version of smoke cleansing ushered in a new wave wellness regimen that promotes cedarwood, crystals, and sage—dismissing Native roots and culture.
In 2018, Sephora faced backlash for appropriating Native culture by mass-producing Pinrose’s, “Starter Witch Kit” that retailed at $42 which included essential oils, tarot cards, a rose quartz crystal and white sage.
Seed Beauty—the parent company behind ColourPop, Kylie Cosmetics, and KKW Beauty—sold a “Ritual Box” that retailed at $150 which included their skincare products, a sage bundle, bath bombs, and crystal sets.
Native Americans started demanding accountability from the companies, calling them out for colonizing sacred practices, and demanding an end to the exploitation. Dominant cultures cannot cherry-pick what trends to steal at the expense of Native experiences and cultures. The high demand for white sage becomes threatening for its survival in Indigenous tribes.
The industry’s harmful marketing practices of whitewashing spirituality onto self-care is appropriating the items associated with prayer rituals. The prolonged suppression of Native spirituality and religious expressions are not up for debate when non-Native companies are profiting off actual culture without acknowledging their wrongdoings.
From dream catchers to cheap ceremonial headdresses worn as Halloween costumes, contributing to Native erasure and scarcity of resources directly impacts cultural identity and spiritual practices. Exercising allyship is essential when non-Indigenous individuals are able to use sage at their convenience and order wellness kits online, meanwhile Natives were starved, imprisoned, and murdered for exercising their religious freedoms a little over 40 years ago.
—Resources—Instead of endangering white sage for non-ceremonial purposes, great alternatives for daily smudging include sweetgrass, rosemary, thyme, nettle, juniper, and mugwort.
United Plant Savers is a medicinal plant conservation that protects medicinal plants in their native habitat and ensures a sustainable supply for future generations.
Support the WindRose Trading Company, who is committed to using sustainable materials and remain environmentally conscious, and contribute sales to a Native American smudging cooperative.
Chicago’s Augustine’s Spiritual Boutique invites the community to explore empowerment and specialize in selling candles, dried herbs, incense, salts, candles, and mojo bags.
Support Indigenous Goddess Gang, an online community of Indigenous femmes that creates a safe space for exploring identity and medicine.
Wendy Red Star is a Native American contemporary multimedia and visual artist who reclaims Native American culture.
Visit Eighth Generation, a Seattle-based art and lifestyle brand owned by the Snoqualmie Tribe that provide an ethical alternative to native-inspired art and products make strong statements about Native identity.
ArXotica is run by sisters from the Qissunamiut Tribe, and they source their own ingredients to produce skincare products made with all-natural ingredients.
Sister Sky is a Native, women-owned company that creates all-natural hair and body care products. Founders are from the Spokane Tribe in Washington.
Mother Earth Essentials is a Canadian indigenous-owned company, they create luxurious bath and beauty products from natural ingredients and traditional recipes.
Visit QUW'UTSUN’ MADE, the founder Arianna Johnny-Wadsworth is from the Quw'utsun'/Cowichan Peoples. She started the company to preserve the traditional knowledge of the Coast Salish Nation through sustainable skincare.
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